Climbing the Pichincha, North Iliniza, and Cotopaxi

The Andean mountain range stretches from the North to the South of the country.  With over thirty volcanoes and one of the largest concentrations of active volcanoes in the world, Ecuador has something to offer to every would-be climber, from the enthusiastic beginner to the highly experienced. With proper acclimatization any of these summits can be conquered. With the different climatic zones, this Cotopaxi, North Illiniza mountain and Pichincha climbing tour is possible all year round.

Day 1: Acclimatization: Pichincha (4794m /15,724ft)

During this Pichincha climbing tour we take our first acclimatization ascent to the 4794m (15,724ft) peak of the active volcano Guagua Pichincha. Quito is nestled in the valley of this active volcano. Our primary goal here is to help each team member to begin testing his or her response to higher elevation and to give our bodies a chance to get used to the altitude, while enjoying the many photographic opportunities. Afternoon drive back to Quito.

Day 2: Acclimatization: Iliniza North Refuge (4600m/15,092ft)

After breakfast we will have a mid-morning departure to the Ilinizas. We travel as far as the takes us, which is to an area called the Virgin. From here it is a 3 hour hike up to the refuge, located at 4600m, where we will begin our North Illiniza mountain tour.

Day 3: Iliniza North (5.125m/16,815ft)

Wake-up early, eat breakfast, and depart for our 5,000m+ summit attempt on North Iliniza. This peak is normally a fairly straight forward climb that sometimes requires the use of fixed rope. It takes around three hours to reach the summit. After our descent, private 4×4 transportation will take us to the hotel near Cotopaxi volcano.

Day 4: Cotopaxi (4600m/14,924ft)

Mid morning departure from La Estación on the Panamerican Highway southbound where we will cross a rich green and fertile valley, commonly referred to as “The Valley of the Volcanoes”. After half an hour, we head east into the Cotopaxi National Park. From the parking area, located at 4600m (14,924ft.), we take a forty-five minute hike with full packs up to the Jose Rivas Refuge on the flank of Cotopaxi at 4800m (15,744ft.) Upon arrival at the hut, we will enjoy a hot tea and a short rest before heading out to the glacier for an afternoon of technical training and equipment familiarization. Back to the refuge, dinner and then early to bed at 6:30 pm.

Day 5: Cotopaxi (5.897m/19.348ft)

Wake up at midnight. Breakfast and equipment check-up. We leave the refuge at 1:00 am. We will pass a group of uniform slopes and ice ramps of 30 and 35 degrees before reaching a glacier platform. We enjoy one of the most spectacular color displays in the Andes. From this point we see the valley below us where the morning sunrise welcomes us with incredible colors. Our route will pass under a base of rock 400 feet wide called Yanasacha. The Indians called it the route of the moon. Here we begin climbing glacier slopes of 35 and 45 degrees; at the top of which, after15 more minutes of climbing we will reach Ecuador’s second highest summit: Cotopaxi Volcano at 5897m (19,427ft.) Our approximate climbing time will be 7 hours. Return to the refuge around 9 or 10:00 am. Rest and drive to La Cienega, a beautiful country-side hacienda located at the base of Cotopaxi. PM return to Quito.